
The new Art of Eating came yesterday and the lead article was about what cookbooks Edward Behr would keep if he were forced to reduce his stash to seven or so. That got me to thinking about the same question - which seven or ten or so would I keep if were up to me to weed out. I don't have as many cookbooks as people might imagine, my having been to culinary school and been a chef and a teacher for all these years. I have more than even I might want since I am unable to give up the autographed ones like my three Alice Waters autographed cookbooks and my autographed Paul Prudhomme and a few others. But beyond that I'm not sure what I would keep. Cookbooks are like so much else, they are subject to fashion and over the course of the three decades that I have been cooking professionally, I have seen so much stuff come and go. When I quit the restaurant to go to graduate school, I loaded up nearly all the cookbooks I had at the time (5 or 6 wine boxes full) and sold them to my successor for about $100. It wasn't a great sum even then (the early 1990s), but I was happy to part with them and move on. The only one from that era that I probably should have kept was the Freddy Girardet.
I get quite a few culinary texts at work and I think I have two of them on the shelves there. Otherwise, I have an Eastern European cookbook* and a baking text or two and a Native American cookbook**, Healey's Art of the Cake, [these are three I really like though I don't dip into them very often] and a few other odds and ends on my shelves at work. But as to what I would keep if I had to really pare down:
Mastering the Art of French Pastry by Bruce Healey
some kind of real general American cookbook like a Better Homes and Gardens (a smidge better than Betty Crocker I think. I have a 1975 Joy of Cooking, but use it less and less as time goes by. I can't throw it out because it has a recipe for whale meat in it.)
The Saucier's Apprentice by Sokolov
La Repertoire de Cuisine by Saulnier
Preserving by Oded Schwartz
The Heritage of Southern Cooking by Camille Glenn
How to Bake by Nick Malgieri
Martha Stewart's Hors d'ouevres Handbook.
I've got some others I like, but I really could live without them. I have a number of Diana Kennedy Mexican cookbooks, but I cook Mexican at home about never. I have Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking 1 & 2, but haven't cracked them in years, maybe a decade. There are a few charcuterie titles I'd likely keep, mostly as a reference, but I think that's it.
As I look at the short list of keepers, I see two are baking, two are sauce, one is various preserving techniques and the last is an old southern favorite. The baking books are important because baking is precise. I always tell people it is a science first and an art second. At home I mostly cook without recipes, so don't really delve into cookbooks much. I keep selected recipes that I have accumulated over the years in a binder at home, and consult it more than any cookbook. There are some things where I want the consistency of the product, like the short ribs mentioned in the previous post, and my hummus recipe where I want it to taste the same every time, but other wise I cook with what I have, what is fresh at the market, or what needs to be eaten up. (As my sister says, 'we're Millers, we don't eat things, we eat things up.")
I know I'll get some grief for listing a Martha Stewart title, but pretty, flavorful, and not super-complicated finger food recipes are harder than you would imagine to come by. Plus she has great presentation ideas.
*East European Cookbook edited by Carolyn Ball
** Native American Cooking by Lois Ellen Frank